Background
I received a Radiomaster Pocket earlier this year. While I like its compact form factor, I have a hard time using the teeny-weeny LCD screen and find the two side pushbuttons obnoxious to accidental triggering with almost zero tactile indication of their status. Additionally, I've always disliked the two-way scroll roller design that Radiomaster implements in all their radios. It trips me up that pressing the roller to select can so easily shift the value away. So I researched available mods out there to help mitigate as many of the niggles I have with the radio as possible. Credit goes to these three sources that contributed to the eventual development of this upgrade:
1. OLED screen mod by
2. Radiomaster Pocket Gimbal Spacer Lowered Gimbals by TheOneAndOnlySlav:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6320806
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6320806
3. Radiomaster Pocket - SA/SD Switch cover by TheDirtyGherkin:
Build Information (simplest to most extensive):
1. Gimbal Drop Spacer & Gimbal Rings
I posted the files for the Gimbal Rings as a remix of the spacers at - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7108406
The gimbal rings can only be inserted after the spacers have been installed.
The spacer is necessary for using the Gimbal Cover designed for the OLED flip screen (see #4).
The gimbal rings can only be inserted after the spacers have been installed.
The spacer is necessary for using the Gimbal Cover designed for the OLED flip screen (see #4).
2. SA & SD Switch conversion to Rocker Switch.
This is a remix of the original at https://www.printables.com/model/1086423-radiomaster-pocket-sasd-switch-cover/remixes. I like rocker switches because they are robust, low profile, not prone to accidental triggering, and provide solid tactile feedback of the switch status. I got my rocker switches from https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001513148147.html. The solder joints to be wired with the switches are shown below.
Watch the original designer's video about how his installed the switches.
3. Scroll Roller & Select Button Conversion
The files to print the parts can be downloaded from: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7108378
Remove the metal axial rod from the original scroll roller by gently heating it with a flame or hot air gun. Insert the rod into the new roller selector with the spacer.
The case has a protrusion that holds the original scroller wheel in place. This protrusion has to be trimmed away as shown below.
The Pivot Base must be glued to the board and properly aligned to the encoder and the tact switch. This alignment is crucial, as any slant or offset may result in the buttons jamming when closing the case, or even an issue with fitting the board back into the case. If you have difficulty with this after the glue has set, the easiest way to resolve the issue is to make the opening bigger by filing away material from the edges of the case that are affecting the fit.
The video below shows its operation after proper fitting.
4. Foldable OLED Screen
Electronic components sources:
OLED Screen - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002766729064.html
OLED Screen - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002766729064.html
Dupont Wire Cable - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007868158870.html
FFC Cable Adapter Board - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004411740279.html
FFC Flexible Cable - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005590443057.html
Files to 3D print the parts are at - https://www.printables.com/model/1374465-flip-foldable-oled-screen-for-the-radiomaster-pock
I used fasteners that I already had on hand. Their measurements are shown below.
Soldering of wires from the OLED to the adapter board is as shown below.
A tip for keeping the Dupoint ribbon wires as flat as possible for the 90-degree bend is to use heat to soften the insulation (using a flame or heat gun), then press them flat.
A slot approximately 10mm wide x 12mm high will need to be cut out above the original screen window of the Pocket's front casing to route the cables discreetly.
If neither comfortable nor confident with cutting the slot above, it is still possible to route the cables directly into the original LCD window. Just be sure that the cables are long enough.
To drill mounting holes for attaching the screen hinge, fully assemble the screen housing to the hinge and then clamp the assembly symmetrically onto the neckstrap holder with a spacer of about 1mm, as shown below. Drill into casing at the inner holes first, using a 1.5mm drill bit.
To drill mounting holes for attaching the screen hinge, fully assemble the screen housing to the hinge and then clamp the assembly symmetrically onto the neckstrap holder with a spacer of about 1mm, as shown below. Drill into casing at the inner holes first, using a 1.5mm drill bit.
Then remove the clamp and disassemble the screen housing from the hinge. Secure the hinge to the casing using M1.7 5mm long self-threading screws. Once secured, drill the outer holes and secure them down with the same screws as used for the inner holes to complete the mounting of the hinge.
Assemble the OLED screen into the housing and mount the whole assembly onto the hinge with the M2 12mm bolts.
Print these two parts to mount the adapter board onto the inner side of the casing.
Attach the adapter board mount to the original LCD mounting holes using the original screws.
Secure the adapter board onto the mount with M1.7 self-tapping screws. Insulate the soldered points with appropriate tape.
Follow the instructions at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cFsVHiim-Eo to install the OLED firmware for the Pocket and put everything back together with the new display ribbon cable attached to the main board. The correct firmware to flash is OLEDPOCKET2112.bin from https://github.com/DongkwanYi/OLEDBOXER/tree/main/firmwares
Cover up the original LCD window and the cut-out slot with the printed part.
And lastly, the finishing touch! Glue a piece of thin magnet so that it protrudes about 2~2.5mm above the casing where the OLED's top metal frame will be located when folded.
Product brochure for this upgrade - https://flip4pocket.tiiny.site
